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Casa Carrolena,Sayulita-Mexico
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This family owns 3 houses in the town, which we act as brokers to interested parties re rentals.Please contact us for rates. There are no images in this section. Please see our other sections with respect to house desriptions and images.
Welcome to Sayulita, a village of simple pleasures, home to about 2,500 Mexican citizens and more and more tourists as Sayulita has been discovered! In the absence of any official tourist guidebook, these pages describe some of the town's amenities and tell you what you need to know in order to enjoy a vacation at one of our houses. Prices mention-ed are subject to change due to inflation but should give you a general idea of costs. The current exchange rate is about 1 USD to 9.3 PS.
GETTING TO SAYULITA
Sayulita is located in the State of Nayarit, 25 miles north of Puerto Vallarta. By car, it takes about 40 minutes to get there from the airport, or an hour from Puerto Vallarta. Your best bet to get to the house is by taxi if you are not planning on doing a lot of exploring. Fares from the airport are quoted at the taxi booth outside the terminal. There seem to be two different companies and be sure to get quotes from both. I have experienced that the price goes down when you ask the second cab booth. The cabs hold 7 or 8 people and cost about 400-450 PS ($50) plus tip. Taking your luggage out to the main road and hailing a non-airport cab can get you a cheaper fare. The price is between 200 and 250 PS and the standard tip is about 10%.
THE HOUSES
The houses are bungalows with two Front Left (Casa Carrollena) bedrooms, two bathrooms, electricity (voltage is the same as in the U.S.), hot water and basic living supplies, i.e. towels, sheets, plates, seasonings, cooking utensils, juicer, blender, etc. I suggest that you bring your own coffee as well as binoculars for watching birds and beach life. A coffee maker and CD/cassette player are in the house. There are also flash-lights, but they may need batteries which are available in the village. You will usually need a flashlight for evening travel in and around the village as it gets dark between 6 and 7 pm (unless you are so lucky as to get a full moon while you are there) and street lighting is spotty. Five gallon bottles of purified water will be in each house. Do not drink the tap water, as it is not purified.
Arrival and Departure: On the day you arrive, there may still be people in the house(s). Generally they leave between noon and 1pm for their flights. We have asked them to have their things packed in the morning so the maid can clean and prepare the house for the next guests.
We don’t have hard and fast rules regarding “check-out” or “check-in” and would prefer not to make them as long as everyone can work around a transition that allows the new people to put their bags in the house and change but also allow the people in the house a little time to leave. Generally, the comings and goings have not been a problem but, should everyone be there at the same time, remember that it will only be a little while before the transition will be over.
HOUSE QUIRKS
Water for the house is stored in a tank behind the property, and it fills by gravity. Please take short showers and don't run the water unnecessarily, i.e., while brushing you teeth or shaving. Problems may occur if there is a power outage that lasts for a number of days or the village water system breaks down. If there is a problem, use the water especially sparingly until the problem is solved.
The village is safe, but you must take ordinary precautions as you would in any foreign country. Please keep your valuables locked while you are away, and please leave the key where you found it at the house rather than carrying it with you. It is also not wise to leave money or valuables lying around either at the beach or in the house. Please keep the gates closed at all times.
STAFF
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he property has a gardener named Primitivo, who everyone calls “Don” Primo. He takes care of the garden and all outside work, and occasional-ly his son, Victor, helps him. All the maids are part of Don Primo’s family. Alma works in the back house, Rosario in the front left and Maribelle in the front right house. They will wash the dishes (please rinse and stack them in the sink), make beds, sweep, mop and generally make the homes presentable. There are washing machines in two of the houses and I’m sure the maids will wash clothes for you if you ask. They come every day but Sunday.
When you leave, it is customary to tip the maid and gardener depending on how much they helped you, i.e. getting fish, arranging fishing trips, cabs, etc., and/or cleaning up after a lot of people. I would suggest you tip the maid $1 per day per couple. It’s possible you will never talk to Don Primo, though he will bring you fresh coconuts in the morning if you want them. The tip is very flexible based on how much you use their services. None speaks English, but that shouldn’t be a problem.
Alma will also cook meals by mutual agreement. You pay for the food and she will cook for 6 people for 150 PS and 300 PS for more than 6 as she will need help.
The back house is totally screened and the others partially screened. While there aren't many insects during the dry season (Nov-July), I suggest you bring insect spray and, if you're prone to bites, use it at night. "Dr. Bells", an effective remedy to ease the itching of bug bites, is available in the drug store in the village. You might also consider taking a Vitamin B complex as that helps some people keep insects away.
RETURNING TO THE AIRPORT
To go back to the airport, or into Puerto Vallarta, you can either take a cab or the bus. The maids can arrange for a village cab to pick you up and the price in January was about 200 PS. Transportes Pacifico, a bus line, provides round-trip bus service from Sayulita to Puerto Vallarta, leaving at 6 am, 7 am, 12 noon, 2 pm and 5 pm plus other unscheduled times. Please check the schedule at the coffee shop at the plaza. It’s best to arrive 15 minutes early just in case. To catch the bus from PV back to Sayulita, go to the Transportes Pacifico bus station on the south side of town. The price is about 17 PS each way.
Sayulita is on Mountain Time, and Puerto Vallarta, is on Central Time. Because Puerto Vallarta is one hour later, you must take this into consideration when you are planning your departure from the village. Though you don't have to reconfirm your flight if you're on a US carrier, it's recommended on Mexican airlines. Reconfirm 24 hours in advance by phone, in person at the airport or airline office in Puerto Vallarta. You may want to reconfirm your flight upon arrival. Don’t forget the time difference!
Tourist Card: Do not lose this card which you must have to enter and leave the country. You can get the card from your travel agent or it will be given to you on your flight and it will be stamped by Mexican immigration upon entry. Should you loose the card, a new one can be issued at the airport but allow a little extra time. Take your ticket and go to customs before getting in the airline line.
POISENOUS ANIMALS AND INSECTS:
There are scorpions in this area, but they tend to avoid houses that are occupied. The maid occasionally puts diesel oil on the floor which keeps the insects away, but check your shoes and other things before you put them on and you should not walk around at night without shoes or sandals. In the tropics, you need to be careful where you put your hands and feet. If you should see a scorpion in the house they usually move slowly and are easy to kill.
Though there are some 800 species of scorpions, only about 75 cause medical problems. depending on the scorpion, bites can be dangerous for small children so they must be treated with anti-venom, which is available at the village clinic located on the main road close to where you turned off for the house, near the lavanderia (laundry) on the south side of the road. Dr. America speaks English and can take care most problems. For adults, scorpion stings usually cause nothing more serious than a bee sting or numbing and tingling. A visit to Dr. America is a good idea for anyone getting a sting. She has anti-venom serum. At the very least bring some antihistamines with you.
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here are snakes that are mostly harmless and other insects that bite or sting but they tend to avoid humans or occupied houses. There are occasionally stinging jellyfish in the water but it’s not a “normal” event. Stings can be treated with meat tenderizer or visit Dr. America. There is one other pesky critter in the water. We think it’s like a small Ray about the size of a pancake. It’s not aggressive but if you step on it, it will sting you. The pain is intense for an hour or so then goes away. Bees and wasps are present but don’t bother you unless you bother them. If you are allergic, bring your medication.
Now that I have got you worried, let me say that the chance of getting stung or bit by anything more than a mesquito is slight. I have been going to Sayulita for 25 years and have not been stung by a scorpion or jellyfish, stepped on a ray or been bit by more than a Mesquito. Just be careful where you put your hands and feet. Check your clothes before you put them on and don’t reach for anything without looking first.
CURRENCY
The current exchange rate is now 1 USD to 9.5 PS. We would suggest that you bring some Mexican currency with you which will get you through the airport and to the village if you should find the cambio (currency exchange office), bank or cash machine at the Puerto Vallarta airport closed for any reason. The bank and cambio tend to give poorer rates on the weekends than the cash machine, so use the cash machine whenever possible. You can get 3000 PS per day from the machine. There is no bank in Sayulita, though some of the merchants will make change. Bills of 200 PS, or smaller, are best since few places in Sayulita carry much change. Double-check the transaction at the window before walking away. Cash machines are everywhere in PV and you can get cash with your bankcard in the banks. Cash from cards is the easiest way to get money and, usually, the best rate of exchange. Travelers checks are usually a poor choice, I've found, as they are harder to use than the ATM machines.
Should you bring them and need a bank, the closest is in the neighboring town of La Peñita, 20 minutes north by car. Travelers checks can be cashed between 9 am and 11:30 am at the bank and there is a cambio in the pharmacy across the street open all day, but his rates are not as good. There are also banks in Puerto Vallarta (open 8 am - 2 pm for travelers checks) and cambios open most any time. The lines in the banks can be long so expect a wait. In PV banks, go to the line where the tourists are since their transactions are usually quicker. In La Peñita you have to have the checks approved by a bank officer, and you will be given a ticket with a number on it, indicating which "caja" (teller number) to go to. I would suggest that you use your credit cards as often as possible as you will get the best rate of exchange. Many stores and restaurants will take US funds at a lower rate.
PHONES
The village phones are located at the ice cream store near the plaza. If you need to be reached by someone in the States, they could fax there as well. The number is 011-52-327-50082. There is a “collect” phone attached to the outside of the building (expensive) and you can make collect calls inside as well. If you want to call from the village, the charge is 10 PS per minute; 3 PS to leave a message on a machine. Cell phones may work but please call your provider for information.
The nearest doctor is at the medical clinic on the way out of town and there is another five miles north in San Pancho (San Francisco). The nearest hospital and dentist are found in Puerto Vallarta. There is a witch doctor that may still be living in La Peñita, half hour north. Her name is China (Chee-nah) and she is known for fixing everything from a bad back to a collapsed uterus. She lives across the bridge as you leave town heading north, on the left.
POST OFFICE
There is no post office in Sayulita. The closest is in La Peñita and there is also one in Bucarias, the PV airport and two in Puerto Vallarta.
DINING OUT
Dining in Sayulita is always informal. You can eat in the beachside cafes, called cantinas, which are usually only open for breakfast and lunch, and in restaurants with various serving hours. Breakfast and lunch are priced at around 15 PS and dinner runs between 20 and 70 PS, depending on where you eat. Beer is around 8 PS in restaurants and 5 PS if you buy at the Deposito (see map). Take your own liquor or wine to the cantinas as they serve only beer. Mixed drinks are available at Don Pedro’s, the bar named “Hay Patricio” near the plaza and Breakers. Beer is available everywhere.
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he cantinas and restaurants are family run operations and may or may not have a sign out front, so use the map to locate the eateries. The best of Sayulita's cuisine includes:
ROLLIE’S:
A LA BLANCA
HAY PATRICIOS BAR AND RESTAURANT
EL CASTEÑO
DON PEDRO’S
CHOCO BANANA: This is Sayulita’s original coffee shop/cafe. They serve coffee and muffins and it’s a great place to sit around and catch up on the village gossip and read newspapers and magazines. They would love any newspapers and magazines you want to leave. Located next to the plaza.
MI JARDIN BREAKERS
LAURA’s
STREET VENDORS Sayulita's version of the fast food joint is our favorite dinner. There are a number of makeshift street-side taco stands near the village plaza where some evenings (usually Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays) one can devour countless miniature tacos very cheaply (3 PS each). They are fried right in front of you and are excellent. I don't know of anyone who has ever gotten sick from eating them, but trust your own judgment. Explore the food and just remember to only eat cooked or peeled food.
ICE CREAM SHOP
A stop at the ice cream shop after dinner will make the meal even more memorable. Homemade popsicles tasting like real fruit and delicious ice cream bars are sold in an assortment of flavors. Lime or melon (cantaloupe) popsicles and coconut ice cream are especially good. Everything is made with purified water, so don’t worry.
GENERAL SUPPLIES FOR EATING AT HOME
If you want to cook at home, basic staples are available in the village. There are a number of small grocery stores in town, some offering better produce than others. It is worth a stroll through town to see what is fresh that day. Stores open at 6 am and close around 11 pm. They carry most staples. Fresh fruit is available in the grocery stores and near the pool hall. Produce grown in the area includes: plátanos (bananas), coconuts, sugar cane, Piña (Pineapple), limes, oranges, grapefruit, mangos, and avocados. Ramon usually brings bananas, either a hand or a stalk, and hangs it on the patio. (Bats appear nightly to eat insects and an occasional banana, but don't let them scare you as they are harmless.) Fresh fruit and vegetables that are going to be eaten raw and without peeling should be soaked for 20 minutes in water treated with Clorox (add one tablespoon to 1/2 gallon of water) and rinse with bottled water to get rid of the chlorine taste. The grocery store with the most choices is across from the plaza, near the ice cream store.
Please leave your empties for the next group. Save all pop or glass milk bottles and trade them in on your next purchase.
NIGHT LIFE
Sayulita's sidewalks roll up early except for eating and drinking. Try Patricio’s bar across from the plaza, or the bar at Don Pedro’s if you want to stay out later than about 9pm.
There is always Puerto Vallarta for more sophisticated entertainment, but generally, it's not a good idea to travel there after dark (travel behind a larger vehicle if you do go at night). Car breakdowns and animals on the road make night driving somewhat dangerous. The little crosses along the highway indicate people who have died there. Day trips are great, and if you are set on hitting the lights of Puerto Vallarta, I suggest you either spend the night there (you can dance all night at one of the discos), or drive home very carefully. Don't stop for strangers or damsels in distress. Discos usually close about 6 am. A new 4 lane road is supposed to be finished by February between PV and Bucerias, making those roads more safe.
THE BEACH
The main beach of Sayulita is rarely crowded, the exceptions being at Christmas and Easter. The constant activity of fishing boats and bird life make it a pleasant place to be. There are steps on the south side of my Mother’s house, which lead to the beach. At very low tide, on the point at the left side of the bay, there is a small pool where tropical fish are trapped and worth seeing. The trip should be made with shoes or sandals. There are other nearby beaches more absent of civilization and worth discovering as well. The nearest is La Playa de Los Muertos (beach of the dead), so named because it is reached through the village cemetery. Follow the beach to the left of the village (facing the water) until the road ends (you'll pass the fish trailer). Take the trail to the left that goes over the hill and through the cemetery. On the other side of the cemetery, turn right to a cove with a wide expanse of beach. before
If you want to walk about 45 minutes, there is a wonderful beach named Pasquerito. Turn right at base of the hill as you meet the village street, (where the dress shop is in front of you and there is a sign for horse back riding.) Continue straight ahead until you merge with a blacktop road. Shortly after you merge with this road, you will see a dirt road angling up to the right. Continue on this road and you will eventually reach Pasquero (pahs-QUER-oh), and Pasquarito, two wonderful beaches. The directions are easier given by someone in the village once you are there. Take water and food as they are at least a half hour walk away and there is nothing available out there. People have begun building out that way so you may not be alone.
In the opposite direction, beyond the Sayulita beach heading north, is a beach bordered by palms that is usually unpopulated. To get there, walk along the beach past the village, cutting up to the road that runs parallel to the beach before you reach the last house. Follow the road through the jungle, skipping the first left turn which goes to the last house you saw, the next right which goes to the main highway, and the next left which goes to a private house. If you should end up at the house, it is owned by friends from Seattle named Kucher, and there is no problem if you tell them you are guests at my house (watch out for the little black dog who makes lots of noise but is quite harmless I think.) Once you reach the beach you might want to visit a small private beach to the left around (or through) the rock point. The waves can be treacherous so be careful!
If you continue north you will eventually reach San Francisco (AKA San Pancho), the small town on the next beach with the clinic. There is good gift shop and they have a few good restaurants. Try Marco’s, good food, margaritas and even “hora feliz” from 1 to 3 pm. The owner is hilarious. Also Los Arcos and another who's name I can't remember, a block east of Los Arcos. At the end of the beach is the Playa Azul Hotel; pool, restaurant, nice. English is spoken by everyone. You might want to cab it home as it’s a long walk back to Sayulita.
SPORTS
Surfboards, fins, snorkels, kayaks, etc., can be rented in the village near Ruperto’s at Poco Loco. Bikes are also available in the village. Body surfing is great, and board surfing is very good if the waves are up. Diving is possible, but the water is not nearly as clear as that found in the gulf. If you want to go fishing, the fishermen will take you. Six hours in an open boat, prices vary so check, and Ramon can arrange it for you.
There is a golf course near Bucerias called the Flamingo Country Club. The green fees and caddy will run you about $60, and clubs are available if you need them. It's a difficult course, and you'll want to start early as it gets hot in the afternoon. Drinks are available from a traveling cart and they serve good food at the club house. The club house also has a television with a satellite feed, so if there is a TV "must", you can see it there (daytime only).
The best places to jog are the beach in front of the house (.8 miles long) and the road to the highway, which is about one mile. There is also the back road to Punta de Mita with lots of hills.
BIRD WATCHING
The Tijereta (little scissors) or Magnificent Frigate Bird, is a tropical seabird that soars above the beach of Sayulita. The bird is black and white and reaches 35 inches in length and 90 inches from wing tip to wing tip. The female has a white chest, and the immature bird has a white head and white underbelly. This bird is found in great numbers along the shores of Sayulita, and since my house is near the beach, you get an excellent view of them. They are called Tijereta because of the scissor action of their tails. Their wingspan is greater in proportion to their body weight than any other bird. They are efficient gliders that can soar at great heights without moving their wings. With their long strongly hooked bill, they rob gulls and terns of food in flight as well as taking small fish and marine refuse from the water surface without landing. If you see one on the beach that is being threatened by a dog or other predator, give it a lift as it cannot do it alone due to it’s size and wing span. They live in colonies on cliffs from which to take off and land. The habitat is California to northern Peru, the Galapagos Islands, the southeast United States, from the West Indies to Brazil, and are seen off the coast of West Africa. They eat fish, jellyfish, squid, crustaceans, and fish guts off the beaches of Sayulita
Pelicans are also abundant. The pelican is readily recognizable by its long neck, long flat bill and great throat pouch that is flat when empty. Males and females look identical. Their main food is fish and crustaceans. Both white and brown pelican are found, but the brown predominates and is native to both coasts of the southern United States, the West Indies, mid-America to northern and western South America as well as the entire length of the Pacific Coast including the Gulf of California. They breed locally on off-shore islands and along the entire length of the east coast of the Gulf of Mexico. Their dramatic head-long dives into the sea from considerable heights make for great bird watching.
You will also see the turkey vulture, a common carrion that scavenges in the fields and along roadsides and beaches. They soar in wide circles, holding their wings in a broad "V" and tilting quickly from side to side. Their habitat is open country from sea level to high mountain wilderness areas.
There are several varieties of gulls seen around Sayulita, including the "Laridae". Sturdy robust birds with webbed feet, long pointed wings, a stout hooded bill and generally a square tail, they are primarily scavengers that rarely dive from the air, but alight on the water to seize food. The sexes look alike.
Large fig trees are occupied by a variety of bird species. The loudest and largest is the black and white magpie jay with a long pointed crest and long sweeping tail. The magpies share the tree with a variety of macaws, parrots and other species. Humming birds come to feed on the hibiscus in the front yard. There may be a bird book in the house if you are interested in learning more about the birds in the area.
SHOPPING: There are quite a few shops for souvenir buying in the village and more are opening all the time. Vendors are on the beach and peddlers open stalls in the plaza on the weekend. Adrianna, who runs the bed and breakfast has Huichole Indians in on Friday or Saturday mornings (about 10) selling their art. It’s a must do!
Puerto Vallarta is packed with shops, including Ralph Lauren and Bill Blass. The prices are not particularly cheaper than in the States and they take credit cards. For pottery, the best selection is at Talaqepaque (tah-lock-uh-pockie), a large shop located on the way into town that is closed between 2 pm and 4 pm. Ask directions at the huge PEMEX on the left once you hit the cobble-stones (by the way, across the street is a very good butcher shop).
There are two huge stores for all types of shopping between the airport and down town. One is on the right, a few blocks from the airport, and sports a huge dome above the central section with a pelequin. The other is called Gigante and is on the left, closer to town. There is also Gutieras Riso found between the two bridges on the other side of the Rio Cuale in central PV. “ACA" is located on the main street into town before the post office and plaza and a block from Ralph Lauren. Olinala has authentic masks.
La Peñita has a variety of small shops, nothing like Puerto Vallarta, but worth a day trip for those who are feeling a bit restless.
CHURCHES
Sayulita's Catholic church is located at the back of the village plaza. Mass is at various times Sundays.
HOLIDAYS
The main holidays in Mexico are February 24, Holy Week (the week before Easter), December 12 (Celebration of the Miracle of Guadeloupe), 25 and 31. During Christmas and Holy Week, every Mexican who can get away goes to the beach. The big resort towns are loaded, and Sayulita fills up nowadays. Water is in shorter supply during these times, and the beaches are not as quiet, but it's still a great place to be.
COMMUNICATING WITH PEOPLE
Service people speak English but few other Sayulitans speak English, but they love it when you speak to them in Spanish. Any attempt is appreciated, and they will never laugh or make fun of your effort. The traditional greeting is "Hola", pronounced "oh--la", and "mucho gusto" is their rendition of "Glad to meet you." "Gracias" and "Por favor" can't be used too often. You will be able to get by very well in the village without speaking Spanish as the people are used to dealing with Americans and Canadians who speak none. All Puerto Vallarta shop owners speak English. The Mexican handshake adds an extra step to the American style by grasping each other's thumb after the shake.
OF SPECIAL NOTE
It's important to remember that Mexico and the Mexican people do some things differently than we do, and so if things begin to get to you, sit down and have a beer (best with lime and salt) or soft drink. Most problems solve themselves in time, and you are there to have a good time. The village is safe, and somewhere you will find a gringo who can help you get what you need. Have a wonderful time and relax.
A SPECIAL REQUEST
1. Please do not put any paper materials into the toilet, including toilet paper. The plumbing is very fragile because it is on a septic system and plugs easily. Please put used tissue or other material into the basket next to the toilet and Esther will dispose of it. While this little necessity seems a burden and a bit uncivilized, you'll find the habit is easily learned.
2. Please do not feed any animals or bring them on the property. I know that it is hard to ignore cute little kittens or puppies but you just cannot bring them on the property or feed them near the propery. Once you feed them they will stay after you leave. They leave fleas in the house and poop in the yard and right now we have a problem with cats. I’m sorry to say that if you do bring them on the property you will not be able to rent again.
3. These houses are very special to us. All the employees work very hard at making it a great getaway for all who use it. We would appreciate it if you would treat them as you would your own home. Thanks very much and have a great time.
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