Bangkok for BeginnersIf we were asked to represent three South-East Asian capitals by tropical fruits, we might think of clean, green Singapore as a fresh lime, and richer-flavoured Kuala Lumpur, perhaps as a ripe pineapple. Employing this imagery, one association that immediately springs to mind for Bangkok is with that king of tropical treats, the taste sensation of the Orient, Durio zibethinus, the delicious, delightful and delectable durian.
Granted, this head-sized botanical wonder with its thick spiky skin and soft yellow flesh is very much an acquired taste, much like a smelly cheese is to a connoisseur, and the fruit's initial effect on a novice's nostrils can be just as overwhelming as the first impressions of the Thai capital on an unsuspecting new arrival, fresh from Don Muang airport. The oft-intoned "Wow, they stink before even being peeled" is indeed true, a fact which effectively bans the offending fruit from closed public spaces. Even following a durian-laden truck in a closed air-conditioned coach can fill the vehicle with more than just a tolerable whiff. "Hey, how can people eat this thing?" is a common question, posed almost as frequently as "Hey, how can anybody actually live in Bangkok?"
But beware. Like the durian, Bangkok can be habit-forming. The teeming 220-year old Thai city not only has a strong and unique flavour, it possesses a potentially highly addictive mix of subtle qualities, which once experienced, can lure visitors back, time and again. "Aye, this is our 14th trip" I overheard an elderly Scots couple say to some fresh-faced honeymooners on a neighbouring pool bed the other day, adding: "Ye can get a real taste fir it" Aye, and they are not alone. Hotels all over the city will tell you of again-and-again-guests who have become close friends of staff and management through repeated, often annual, visits. Given the air and noise pollution, the motorised chaos, and the often searing temperatures, it is not easy for 'outsiders' to understand the attraction. Even if you ask those geriatric aficionados why they keep coming back, they tend to reply in non-specifics. "Oh, we just love it here" is a common response. If you dig deeper, it may be followed by any or all of the following:- the people, the food, the temples, the river, the canals, the smiles, the charm, the smells, the friendliness and the friends made, the sounds, the shopping, the atmosphere......and the magic. Don't forget the magic.
Years ago, I had to entertain some VIP British tourists to dinner. On meeting the middle-aged couple in the hotel lobby bar, they greeted me grumpily by blurting that they'd just arrived, hated what they had observed on the way from the airport, and had absolutely no desire to venture out at night into "this bloody awful place." Instead, they wanted to eat a "nice steak and chips" in the hotel grill room. After two rounds of drinks and much cajoling, I finally did persuade them to at least try Thai food at my local restaurant - with the promise that I'd take them home instantly any time they wished. On arrival, they sat at the wooden table expressing a mix of utter dejection and intense fear, much like that of poor wretches about to be executed. Signs of cautious enjoyment appeared however when the aromas of our food order reached their noses, and relaxed if reluctant nods followed as they began to sample the rich, wonderful tastes. Laughter joined in as an adjoining table of jolly Thai students sent us over glasses of local 'Mekhong' whisky to accompany our Thai beer, and all duly stood up charmingly to give us regular toasts, ensuring our maximum indulgence in the copious supply of spirit, which generously just kept on arriving. The previously stuffy Brits were suddenly convivial charming company. The dinner turned into a huge, hilarious success. Out on the street, with the now smiling pair metamorphosed into merriment, it was easy to coax them into a coasting "Tuk Tuk" Bangkok's open-sided three wheeled taxi. Seconds later, we were roaring three-up through the traffic to enjoy a great evening in the city's night spots, with the couple waving to all and sundry, and all and sundry happily waving back - in a way that only happens in Thailand. As a finale, I took them to the Erawan shrine, a small open place of worship dedicated to a Brahman God situated at Rajaprasong, one of the city's busiest intersections, close to the World Trade Centre. In this incense-filled microcosm of Asia, the roar of the traffic was curiously muted by the music from the small Thai orchestra performing at one side. As we sat down to observe, dancers and worshippers obscured our view to the street outside. Offerings of sweet-smelling garlands, stacked up over the hours, rose higher than our heads. Although I had been there countless times, there was something undeniably special about this particular evening, something, perhaps, even verging on the mystical. The lady's very emotional voice suddenly interrupted my thoughts: "I have never experienced anything as wonderful as this" she was saying, over and over again. I looked over, and saw she was in tears. Her husband wasn't too far away from the same emotion. Two more Bangkok addicts were thus born. And it happens every day.
It is perhaps this undeniably magical quality of "Krungthep" as it is called by the Thais, that becomes so compelling - the unexpected experience in a relatively unattractive city, when the world freezes in a moment of arresting, unforgettable beauty. Certainly, if the rough translation if its official name (which happens to be the longest place name in the world, and thus occupies a section in the Guinness Book of Records) is anything to go by, this is no ordinary spot on the globe: Great city of angels, the supreme repository of divine jewels, the great land unconquerable, the grand and prominent realm, the royal and delightful capital city full of nine noble gems, the highest royal dwelling and grand palace, the divine shelter and living place of reincarnated spirits. In other words - what better place for a fascinating holiday? Or a place to do business?
Beware of "Other Magic"Before venturing out to experience the city, visitors should remember this fact: Bangkok is home to some of the most charming confidence tricksters in the world. They are out there in significant numbers at the main tourist sites, or in front of your hotel, waiting. They are usually well-spoken, and utterly convincing. Scores of otherwise intelligent tourists become their hapless victims every day, often 'magically' parting with large amounts of money, and wondering for the rest of their life how they could have been so gullible.
Even long experienced travellers have been cheated by these ingenious rogues, and people who read this kind of warning yet still fell for the scam, can only mumble things like "I know, I read it, understood it, but these people were so nice, seemed so genuine - I just never thought......"
The technique employs a string of 'friendly' people, the first contact often carrying fake but convincing papers introducing him as a university professor, a Thai Airways pilot, a police chief etc. In the eyes of the visitor therefore, he is a 'genuine local Thai' and theoretically, interesting to get to know. This leads to a succession of other seemingly accidental encounters, inevitably ending in a jeweller's shop to take advantage of a once-only 'special discount' on precious stones. At this visually impressive but disreputable establishment, other enthusiastic 'buyers' - often foreigners employed by the crooks - reinforce the scam, and the trap springs in the expectation of a bargain purchase, or a large profit when the (worthless) stones are resold back home. There are many variations on the above, plus other clever scams. You will be safe if you remember the Golden Rule: Local people are basically shy, and reserved. No honest Thai person will approach you directly in a public place to offer unsolicited help, sightseeing tips, or advice.
If this happens (and it is very likely when you visit tourist sites) politely ignore the person - or enter into a conversation at your peril. He is a con man.
Dressing the part
There is a curious tendency for tourists all over the world to dress as though they might be appearing in a circus, and Bangkok is not a city that suffers such ostentation gladly. Apart from teenagers influenced by Western trends, most Thai people dress conservatively and well. A tourist who appears in public attired like a clown will silently be judged to be one. "Smart casual" is the order of the day. Garish or revealing attire should be reserved strictly for the beach. Ladies should avoid bare shoulders, and low dresses. Shorts are not recommended for either sex, except at the seaside or the tennis court.
Things to see and do
Detailed sightseeing information is beyond the scope and purpose of this web site, but the following outline may be useful. It is recommended that you purchase an updated guide book, and a good city map - Nancy Chandler's well-researched, detailed and regularly updated version is generally considered to be the best for exploring the city.  An organised tour booked through a reputable company can be a rewarding experience with a qualified guide. Hiring a car with a driver-guide is a more expensive but preferable alternative to "seat-in-coach tours" which permits tailor-made itineraries to be enjoyed in comfort. However, since the driver is likely to have his own shopping recommendations, the same aforementioned advice applies.
Bangkok's major sightseeing attractions and enjoyable pursuits can be categorised as follows: 1) The Grand Palace Area
2) Other Temples
3) Markets
4) Museums & Interesting Places
5) Chinatown
6) The River
7) The Canals (klongs)
8) Eating
9) Shopping
10) Nightlife
11) The Skytrain
12) Sports
1) The Grand Palace
The old part of the city - Rattanakosin "Island" (presumably because it was once encircled by canals) boasts the fewest hotels, but arguably contains the most interest, and this is perhaps the only part of the city suitable for a walking sightseeing tour. It will take you a half day at least to absorb the two main attractions here, namely Wat Po, Bangkok's oldest and largest temple with its huge reclining Buddha; and the adjoining Grand Palace and the Emerald Buddha Temple. Also within this area lies the National Museum; The National Art Gallery; The National Theatre; Wat Mahatat, the centre of Buddhist studies; and a broad flat expanse of recreational parkland called Sanam Luang. Also worth noting is the Lakmuang Pillar, which commemorates the founding of Bangkok 220 years ago, now a popular shrine featuring regular classical dance performances.
2) Bangkok Temples
The appeal of Thai temples lies not only in their aesthetic allure, but also in their wonderful accessibility, since they are open to visitors of all faiths. As well as serving as a place for worship, religious ceremonies, education, and community ceremonies, their tranquil interiors offer sanctuary from an increasingly stressful exterior, and provide an excellent place for contemplation for Thais and tourists alike. Organised excursions usually include the most famous, ie. Wat Po, (reclining Buddha) Wat Traimitr (Golden Buddha) and Wat Benjamabophitr (Marble temple) which can all suffer from visitor overload, and a return trip at dawn or dusk when the coaches have gone is worth the effort. But it is the smaller least-visited ones, often hidden in quiet corners of the city, where Thai Temple Magic is most often discovered - and since there are more than 400 temples in Bangkok, the potential for magic is considerable.
3) Markets
There is perhaps no better reflection of Thailand's abundance than that reflected in the dynamic cacophony of its local markets. Whether an up-country collection of shaky stalls, or a world-beater like Bangkok's Chatuchak, the sheer quantity overwhelms the senses, and defies rational thought "Who is eating all of this food?" is the first question, followed by "Who on earth is buying all of this stuff?" Asking a local might bring the puzzled glance of somebody being asked a silly question. Consulting a long-toothed expat might result in a predictable "Well, even after 25 years here, I've never figured that one out" Consumer mysteries notwithstanding, Bangkok's markets provide a touristic treat, and a few hours spent in any of the city's tightly packed mazes will keep your eyes and nostrils at full attention, your feet dancing regular quicksteps, and your camera devouring rolls of film. Like so many sightseeing pleasures in the Kingdom, day markets are inevitably best appreciated at sunrise, and it is worth rising at first light to enjoy them at their coolest, most colourful best. Amongst the many waiting to be explored are the wholesale fruit, vegetable and flower market at Pak Klong Talaad; the plant market at Thewes; the clothes market at Pratunam; (next to Amari Watergate) the markets of Chinatown (see below) the night market of Pat Pong, and of course the Mother of all Markets at Chatuchak every weekend. (see our member area of an ezine article on this subject)
4) Chinatown Bangkok's Chinatown area merits a whole, or at least a half day's exploration. During this time you are likely to sample every available odour on the planet, see numerous UNFO's (unidentifiable non-flying objects -"What on earth is that?") admire countless Asian countenances of every age, experience wonder, shock, curiosity, revulsion, admiration, reverence, amazement, and overhear a dozen different local languages. Not least, you'll have your lungs filled with some of the most traffic-polluted air in the city, sweetened by jasmine, and amply spiced by frying garlic. Not for the faint-hearted, this sprawling, crowded area guarantees a mega-buzz for those who enjoy feeling the pulse of a city directly through the jugular. Chinatown encompasses the equally worth visiting Thieves and Pahurat markets which are within easy walking distance. (Nancy Chandler's map is indispensable for exploring Chinatown)
5) Museums & Interesting Places If you have time, your list might also include the National Museum, (largest in S.E. Asia); Wang Suan Pakaad (previously a royal residence); Jim Thompson' s House, (superb antiques and legacy of a disappeared American silk specialist); VimarnMek (beautiful golden teak building); The Snake Farm (fascinating venom extraction shows); Erawan Shrine, (roadside Brahman place of worship) Royal Barge Museum (wonderfully decorative boats used in royal processions); Dusit Zoo & Lumpini Park (to see Thai people at leisure) and the extraordinary enclave of Khao San Road, (to see backpackers at leisure, and possibly where your teenage son or daughter might be staying)
6) The Main River The Chao Phya river, plus the wealth of natural and man-made attractions which line its banks, provide a non-stop panoply of fascination. Numerous tour options are available, including day trips to the former Thai capital of Ayuthaya, and dinner cruises which allow you to experience the big river as a combination of darkness, reflections, and city lights. Arguably the most fun and certainly the best value is a return ride on the public river boat the Chaophya Express or Reua Duan to its Nonthaburi terminus. The round trip takes approximately three hours, costs less than US$1.00 and you can get off at any of the numerous stops where something catches your interest.
7) The Canals (Klongs)
Visitors returning to Bangkok after an absence of a few decades are stunned to discover the exotic Venice-like city they once knew now firmly embedded in concrete. Many of the long straight roads clogged with vehicles used to be waterways filled with boats. Few klongs remain, but those that do are worth visiting, particularly on the opposite (Thonburi) side of the river. Tours exist, but a privately arranged trip exploring the smaller lesser-known and often tiny channels is much preferable. For the pioneering traveller, numerous "longtail" public boats operate in this remaining network, and using these local services can be a wonderful experience. Unless you speak enough Thai to find your way around, a local guide is recommended.
8) Eating & Drinking The excellence of Thai cuisine needs little introduction, even though Thai restaurants overseas tend to serve blander variations of the art. One of the best ways of appreciating the subtleties is participating in a Thai Cooking Class where students first shop for the ingredients and herbs in the local market before learning how to blend and combine them into the simply extraordinary taste sensations they provide. Bangkok is home to some of the finest restaurants in Asia, from the simplest of servings, to the most sophisticated haute cuisine. Alcohol consumption is high in Thailand, reflected in the wide range of beers and firewaters - the best known being the rice whisky Mekhong. Imported spirits such as Scotch cost much less than in Scotland, but imported wines are heavily taxed, and good vintages are very expensive. The locally produced Chateau de Loei brands however, are very acceptable.
9) Shopping
Probably no other city in Asia offers such a vast choice of goods, much enhanced by the polite sales techniques, and the good-natured haggling that accompanies most transactions. Thailand is brimming with bargains, the moreso since the devaluation of the Thai baht in 1997, and a simple stroll around the shops or local market may see you return with things that you never thought you wanted, but suddenly had to buy. Provided you have sufficient time, following the standard tourists' shopping rules will help ie. a) First invest time only observing what there is to buy in various outlets. (markets, shops, department stores etc.) b) Decide what you want to buy, and check prices in several different locations, bargaining where applicable c) Make purchases when you are reasonably sure there are no better deals available. One good starting point for this procedure is at Pratunam textiles market (next to the Amari Watergate Hotel) followed by a short walk to Naraiphand Thai Handicraft Center opposite the World Trade Centre. This is a joint venture between the government and the private sector, where local products are sold at reasonable fixed prices. A subsequent exploration of the myriad shops inside the World Trade Centre will top off the first "shopseeing" impressions. The Bangkok Skytrain (see below) brings you quickly and efficiently to the many other main shopping areas. There is a vast choice: Clothing, Silks, Cotton, Batik, Lacquerware, Pewter, Carvings, Ceramics, Silver, Gold, Furniture, Handicrafts, Hill tribe articles, Jewellery and Gemstones, to mention but a few. The latter should be bought from a reputable shop (ask local expats or your Embassy for recommendations) and made for pleasure rather than investment. Unless you are a qualified gemologist, forget about making a profit on your gemstone purchase in Thailand. Which tailor? A valid question indeed. Bangkok's ubiquitous (mainly Indian Sikh) tailors now have such a high profile that many advertise in expensive glossy magazines, frequently splashing out with double-page features, and claiming to have won a variety of otherwise unlisted and unknown "awards". The high cost of such advertising coupled with the fact that they inevitably offer a 'Package Deal" where you can buy half a wardrobe for just over US$150 will tell you that something is wrong, and indeed it is. Mostly, this is a ruse to get you into the shop, and you emerge having spent a great deal more than you wanted to - these fellows are expert salesmen, and the expertise is not always reflected in what they are selling. Quality is a key factor - some of the window displays exhibit such hideous bad taste and stitching quality (plus usually a few long-dead insects) that it is astonishing that they get any customers at all. The convenient "Made in 24 hours" offer may also see your bargain begin to unravel almost as fast. None of us will ever forget the guest at a hotel cocktail party who proudly appeared wearing his brand new just-delivered jacket, the sleeve of which slowly began to detach itself with each vertical movement of his gin-and-tonic. To our amused horror, it finally came apart in a haemorrhage of stuffing, and lay on his arm like some strange wounded animal. Housekeeping to the rescue& & Having said that, there are excellent tailoring possibilities in Bangkok, and again, recommendations from local residents or regular visitors are invaluable. For top quality fabrics and custom made articles created by craftsmen on the premises (and not by sweat shops in the bowels of the city) expect to pay a little less than you would back home, and for suits and jackets, anticipate 2-4 fittings.
10) Nightlife Bangkok's racy nightlife has recently been hobbled by government attempts to uphold decency, and the notorious anything-goes bars are currently a shadow of their former self. This has happened many times over the years, and a return to the full formula may still be on the cards. Increasing numbers of tourists have also turned what was once rather spontaneous and charmingly amateur entertainment into something less appealing more commercialised, and less erotic. Nonetheless, Pat Pong is still worth a visit, not least for its night market. The Nana Plaza and Soi Cowboy areas are smaller clones of the same thing. Most bars don't cheat, but a few are rip-offs with hidden charges. Go with a local person, or take advice before setting out. More sedate entertainment comes in the form of a Thai dinner of bland but nonetheless enjoyable Thai dishes, with an introduction to the subtleties of Classical Dance.
11) The Skytrain The Skytrain was opened on the 5th December 1999, the King's 72nd birthday, and consists of two metro lines on elevated concrete pillars along three major routes covering central Bangkok. The two lines intersect and offer interchange at Siam Centre, a popular shopping area not far from the World Trade Centre and National Sports Stadium. The lines are named after the main streets they serve, ie. Silom and Sukumvit. Better late than never, and not yet comprehensive enough to have much effect on car-commuters, the air-conditioned Skytrain is a relief to thousands able to afford the higher fares, and otherwise condemned to strap-hanging on packed city buses. It is also a boon to able-bodied tourists able to scale the steps up to the platform from street level, since escalators and elevators are not yet featured at all stations. The most popular stops for visitors are as follows: Siam Square: Trendy shopping centre. Close to cinemas, bookstores.
Chidlom: Linked to the Central department store, close to Gaysorn Shopping Plaza, Erawan Shrine, World Trade Centre, and the US/Swiss/British Embassies. National Stadium: Close to the sprawling Mah Boon Krong shopping centre, and the closest to Jim Thompson's house, located in a small lane opposite the Stadium. Phrom Pong: Linked to a large elegant department store - the Emporium - which offers hours of shopping and recreation possibilities. Victory Monument: Busy, crowded shopping area mainly used by locals. Morchit: The stop for the huge weekend market of Chatuchak, with its extraordinary kaleidoscope of products. Go early to beat the heat. Saladang: Linked to Central Department store's Silom Road branch, this business and commercial centre offers a wide variety of shopping by day, and is packed with roadside stalls at night. It is the closest station to Pat Pong night market and entertainment area. Saphan Taksin This terminal station links to ferries on the Chao Phraya River, with convenient connections to the "Chaophya Express" boats that go northwards to the jetties serving the Grand Palace area (Tha Maharat, Tha Tien, Tha Chang or Tha Phra Chan) Alighting at Thai Tien jetty gives you access to a smaller ferry boat to visit Wat Arun across the river. There is a current three-day Tourist Pass promotion which permits visitors to enjoy unlimited use of the Skytrain for three consecutive days for 280 baht. To further assist public transportation, a 20 km long underground line is currently under construction.
12) Sports Most participation sports are available in Bangkok for those fit enough to perform in the tropical conditions, and the city is particularly well endowed with golf courses. A cooler alternative is ice skating, and the Thais have shown themselves to be skilful ice hockey players. Arguably the most interesting spectator sport is Thai Boxing - Muay Thai - and a major bout can empty the city streets of taxis until it is over as drivers flock to the nearest television set. Reserved for the daring rather than the dainty, a seat in one of Bangkok's two boxing stadiums will guarantee an evening of revelations into the Thai psyche.
Conclusion
The aforementioned is intended as a small thumbnail sketch, rather than an attempt to draw a picture of Bangkok's huge store of attractions, far less describe them in any detail. We hope the information is useful, and we welcome suggestions for its improvement. Amari Hotels and Resorts is lucky to have four hotels in this huge metropolis, each in its own special location. Whether you are a first-time traveller to the Thai capital, or an old hand coming back for yet more magic, Amari wishes you a warm welcome to this amazing city.
|
